The amazing paradox of scallion popover s’more
” Nothing about this makes any sense… Yet it’s going to change the s’more world as you know it. “
Mark my words. None of this makes any sense. Nothing about it suggests that it should work. Scallions and marshmallows?! If you now shelve this idea in the lightless skepticism inside your head, it will forever be just a reminder that I – the Asian chick who has been left unchecked for far too long in the internet wilderness – have finally gone mad.
But if you could just push aside your good senses (the little voice inside your head telling you that the third powdered donut won’t help you, yes that one, scrap it), this recipe will turn the s’more world as you know it, upside down.
Yes, scallions, possibly one of the least likely substances to be associated with s’more next to pickled herrings and petroleum, against all odds, has somehow proven to be a miraculously effective liaison between our taste buds and the buttery, slightly chewy sweetness of charred marshmallows. Yes! That is what I’m saying! But how could this be? Have I lost my mind? Well, I wish I could take the credit for this insanity but in cold hard reality, I did not, sadly, invent this. In fact, I have utterly stolen this idea from a Taiwanese cracker that is sold in all major Taiwanese airports, the scallion cracker nougat sandwich.
Yes, that’s a real thing, scallion soda cracker sandwich with a nougat filling. Not that the case for savory-sweet hasn’t been established elsewhere, but none has ever been so curiously bizarre, absurd to a point. Even the attempt to imagine the two flavors conjoining triggers a repulsion reflex put in place by millions of years of human evolution. So what kind of a sick person came up with this twisted though in their evil lair, I didn’t bother to look up in my bitter jealousy, but what’s for sure is that it has turned every skeptics, Taiwanese or not, into a believer that the age for scallions to join the company of confectionary has finally arrived.
So why don’t I just do a recipe for a scallion crack nougat sandwich, you ask? Well, if you have ever intended to make soda crackers at home you’d know that it is an unnecessary labor with negative returns. And homemade nougat, even more so. Try to stuff a little dollop of the latter inside the former and repeat 40 times? Yeah I didn’t think so either. Especially when there is an alternative for both that are not only easy and rewarding to make at home, but in my opinion, far more superior in textures, tastes, and last but not least, fun.
A foolproof scallion popover recipe that is pop-guaranteed with gorgeously crispy crust and a warm and spongy center, salty and buttery where just the right amount of scallion aroma permeates through its pores. Then its naturally hallow cavity gently holds together the liquified state of the caramelized marshmallows, unstable stringy and promising, until you take your first faithful bite to collapse its integrity, as the crispy and spongy savoriness of the popover clashes against the burnt and buttery candy-ness of the marshmallows. How unlikely so yet incredibly right.
And you too, from this point on, will forever wonder and marvel at the paradox that is the new s’more.
- 1 cup (242 grams) half-half or whole milk
- 2 large eggs
- 3/4 cup + 1 tbsp (103 grams) all-purpose flour
- 3 tbsp (22 grams) cornstarch
- 1 1/2 tsp fine sea salt
- 1 tsp light brown sugar
- 1/3 cup finely minced scallions
- Clarified butter for cooking
- Marshmallows to finish
- Depending on whether your oven comes with the fan-on option or not, preheat the oven on 375 F/190 C fan-on, or 400 F/200 C no-fan.
- In a small pot, heat half-half or whole milk over medium-low heat until it comes to a gentle simmer. Meanwhile, crack the eggs into an easy-to-pour container and whisk until even. And in another bowl, mix together flour, cornstarch, sea salt and light brown sugar. Slowly pour the half-half, 1/4 cup at a time, into the container with eggs while whisking constantly (pouring too fast may cook the egg prematurely). Once evenly incorporated, add the flour-mixture and whisk until combined, with some small lumps are totally fine. Then add the finely minced scallion and mix until even. Set aside until needed.
- Add 1 1/2 tsp of clarified butter into each popover cups (5 large or 7 small ones). Then place on a baking -sheet and set on the lower-third rack inside the preheated oven for 5 minutes. Take the baking sheet out, then pour the batter right into the middle of each cups until it is about 50% full. Return the sheet back into the oven and bake for 15 minutes. Then lower the temperature down to 350 F/175 F FAN OFF, and bake for another 25-30 min, until the popovers are deeply browned on the exterior. During this whole time, do not open the oven door. And taking the popovers out prematurely may result in deflating. Let the popovers cool inside the cups for 5 minutes before transferring onto a cooling rack.
- Toast 2 medium-size marshmallows (for large popovers) over fire until charred all around, then stuff them into the hallow center of the popover. Serve immediately while popovers are still warm and crispy.